HISTORY




Searchlight Sites in the Newcastle/Sunderland Area:
Marsden Hall & Vicinity


MARSDEN HALL TODAY (16 K)

Marsden Hall as it looks today (February 2000); click to enlarge.


   Marsden Hall is still there, now a private residence. Located on Cleveland Hill, 84 meters above sea level, Marsden Hall is 500 meters from Marsden Bay and is bounded by the A1300 and A183. It is west of Lizard Point lighthouse and south of South Shields. It can be found on the Ordnance Survey Landranger Series Map (see circled area on map below) for Tyneside and Durham (LS Series Sheet 88; grid reference NZ398645)."


MARSDEN HALL CHRISTMAS CARD (20 K)

Marsden Hall as depicted on a Christmas card
sent by the current owner; click to enlarge.


MARSDEN HALL LOCATOR MAP (52 K)


MARSDEN ROCK TODAY (7 K)

Marsden Rock as it looks today (February 2000); click to enlarge.


MARSDEN ROCK (15 K)

Marsden Rock is pictured here prior to some 1997 demolition work (see below) performed to stabilize the formation. The rock used to be much larger than pictured here, but it is gradually disappearing into the sea. It is is accessible by foot when the tide goes out. At high tide it is surrounded by water.


Brief History of Marsden [ Courtesy History of Sunderland Page ]
CLIFFS AT MARSDEN (17 K)    The limestone cliff formations that dominate much of the coast between Hartlepool and the River Tyne are much in evidence at Marsden to the north of Whitburn (see photo at left). Most notable of the limestone features is the massive Marsden Rock (dead center in the photo at left). This was once within jumping distance of the coast, but is now an isolated limestone stack providing a natural refuge for Kittiwakes, Cormorants, and Fulmars. Set within the coastal caves overlooking the Marsden Rock is the famous Marsden Grotto Public House. Its history begins in 1782, when an Allendale lead miner nicknamed "Jack the Blaster" came to work in the limestone quarries at Marsden and blasted a home for himself and family out of one of the caves of Marsden Bay. Jack became known for his hospitality and his home developed into the Grotto Inn.

   Marsden Bay was once a frequent haunt of local smugglers, who numbered among Jack's best customers and suppliers. On one occasion the smugglers were nearly caught in the act at Marsden after one of their fraternity turned informer and passed information to the South Shields excise men regarding the landing of illegal cargo at Marsden Bay. The smugglers learned of the imminent danger of being caught and managed to warn off the vessel that was bringing the illegal merchandise. It dumped its cargo further down the coast at Souter Point near Whitburn.

   When the identity of the informer was discovered by the smugglers, he was hung from a bucket inside a shaft called the Smuggler's Hole that had been bored into a cave near the Marsden Grotto. Here the poor man had to suffer the jibes of his former comrades who gluttonously feasted in front of his eyes and used him as a target for their refuse. It is said that on cold dark stormy nights his ghostly wails can be heard above the sound of the howling winds.Smuggling took place in the vicinity of Marsden well into the nineteenth century and as late as 1851 there is a record of the capture of a cargo of 8000 pounds of contraband tobacco in the area with an estimated value of £4000.


Blowing Up the Rock [ Courtesy South Tyneside Metropolitan Borough Council, Development Services Department ]
   The word ‘Marsden’ is only a slight corruption of the word "Mares den" and thereby hangs a tail not without interest. In the 9th Century, when this country was under the rule of the Saxons, there lived, near Cleadon, a Thane by the name of Thalphere THE ROCKHe had only one daughter, of whom, most naturally, he was extremely fond. Her name was Naestra. By accident she met and fell in love with a Danish chieftan, Rolf Hardra, who had come over with the host who had sacked the Abbey at Tynemouth. Her love was reciprocated, but since they could expect nothing but fiery opposition from the girl’s parent, their meetings were necessarily clandestine, and held upon the seashore. Hardra would ride over upon his white mare (the same which gave its name to Whitemare Pool), and leaving the animal to roam at will along the sands, wandered with his love along the beach. His proposal of marriage, the story of which founded the legend of the Popping Stone at Marsden, had almost won Naestra into agreeing to elope with him, when her father, brother and a number of retainers, having discovered their tryst, came upon them. A fierce fight ensued, during which Naestra, in an attempt to save her lover, was killed by her own brother. Hardra avenged her with his next stroke and before he was finally subdued, had accounted for more than one of his enemies. Thalphere himself also falling to the Dane’s sword. After the death of her master, the white mare wandered for some time around the place and was found dead one evening below the cliffs, which have, since then, been known as Marsden, the Mare’s Den.

   Marsden Rock is an imposing 100-foot sea stack of magnesium limestone lying approximately 100 yards off the main land of South Shields. The first map to actually show the rock as being isolated from the mainland was that of a Captain Collins in 1693 and was published as "Great Britain’s Coasting Pilot." In 1830, Peter Allan, of Whitburn, along with two assistants, constructed a flight of steps up the side of the rock. The steps took two weeks to erect, and eventually visitors could climb to the top of the rock and purchase refreshments from Mr Allan, who had erected a tent on the top for this purpose.

   The rock was climbed by this method many times and in 1903, several choirs were massed on top of the rock to perform a choral service. It is recorded that in 1911 a huge section of the rock collapsed and it was feared that the entire rock would be claimed by the sea. Following many further rock falls and severe erosion by the sea, much of the cavern and corridor systems within the rock have disappeared.

THE ROCK   In 1996, the top section of the famed arch of Marsden Rock collapsed, splitting the rock into two separate stacks. In 1997, following the relentless battering of the North Sea, experts inspected the smaller stack to the south of the main rock and declared that it was so unstable, that it presented a danger of collapsing onto the shore. In the interest of public safety, the decision was made to abolish the smaller stack.

DRILLING THE STACK   Owners of the rock, The National Trust, engaged the company Rock Blasting Engineers Ltd of Crook, to carry out the demolition work. Preparation work began on 17 March 1997 and consisted of the boring of many holes around the base of the stack (photo at left) which would later be packed with explosives.

photo   The drilling work could only take place during low tide because the stack was situated at the low tidal limit, and only a short period of time was available to proceed with the work at each tide. Working at a very low tide, it was anticipated that the stack would be demolished on 21 March. However, due to particularly high low tides and treacherous swells, the preparation work was delayed. Following more favorable weather conditions and more predictable low tides, work was able to proceed at a pace and the drilling work was completed on 25 March.

EXPLOSIVES PLACED   On the morning of 26 March, the 81 bored holes were packed with explosives (see photo at left) and made ready for detonating later in the day. To lessen any possible chance of vibration damage to the already eroded Mainland Cliffs and the main stack of Marsden Rock itself, it was decided that the charges should be detonated at high tide: the water absorbing much of the effects of the explosion.

EXPLOSION    By late afternoon, a crowd of local residents had assembled along the Coast Road from Marsden Grotto to Souter Point and at 4.00 pm, the small stack, which had for so many years formed the southern support of the famous arch, was brought crashing down into the North Sea. The controlled explosion had, in a matter of seconds, reduced the stack into a 12,000-ton pile of rubble awaiting the passage of time and tide for its dispersal.

REMAINING ROCK   Erosion of the existing stack is continuing and it is expected that the rock will again develop at least one arch. However, this will probably take several hundred years to happen. NOTE: at the extreme left of the photo at left can be seen the electrical hoist structure for the Marsden Grotto, a hotel partially built into the cliffs (see drawing below).


Marsden Grotto
   The 18th Edition of Ripley's Believe It or Not!, published in 1971, states that "In South Shields, England, a world-famous hotel originally was located entirely inside a cave. Part of the structure now extends outside the cavern and an electrical hoist lowers food to the hotel from the top of the cliff.". The grotto was built by a local miner, Jack the Blaster, in 1782, who created a huge cavern using parts of existing smugglers' tunnels (which still exist but are blocked off). The public can reach the beach below the cliffs by elevator.

MARSDEN GROTTO (43 K)


MARSDEN GROTTO TODAY (13 K)

Marsden Grotto as it looks today (February 2000); click to enlarge.


MARSDEN GROTTO TODAY (5 K)

A recent postcard view showing Marsden Grotto (via David Anderson); click to enlarge (23 K JPEG).


MARSDEN ROCK TODAY (5 K)

A postcard view showing Marsden Rock before the demolition of the right-hand pillar (via David Anderson); click to enlarge (27 K JPEG).


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